Faro Old Town is the most beautiful part of the city, and is still surrounded by Roman walls dating back to the 9th century. It features a pretty square where the 13th century cathedral sits, as well as the Nossa Senhorado Carmo church, which is the best example of gold-leaf woodwork in southern Portugal. Squeamish? You might want to take a rain check on the chapel - it's lined with the bones of 1,200 monks.

The best place for chilling out is Faro Marina, a pretty watch-the-world-go-by spot where you can sit and soak up the sun and the locals. Faro Beach, about 7km from the city, is reached by crossing a bridge. Its golden sands are perfect for a spot of sunbathing and a dip in the sea.

Nature-lover? Don't miss the Ria Formosa Nature Reserve (Parque Nacional do Ria Formosa) 50,000 acres of lagoon and greenland where hundreds of birds stop during the spring and autumn migrations. And the boat trip over is pleasant, too.

A beautifully built cathedral, constructed in the 13th century on the site of an ancient mosque and flanked by pungent orange trees, Se Cathedral in Faro's Old Town is a real must-see. Also worth a peek is the 19th century Palace of Estoi, on the outskirts of the city. The seriously gorgeous gardens are wonderful for a wander.

Fancy a night on the town? Hotfoot it to the Rua de Prior area for the clubs, where you'll find Partimonio. If you go on a Friday night, you can do your best Strictly Come Dancing impression with a free salsa lesson. For something really rustic, try the Taverna de Se inside the old city walls, and for a bar with a view, head to Verandas, a little local hideaway overlooking the clay rooftops nearby.

Foodies won't be disappointed. Be sure to try the heavenly seafood at the well-priced Adega Nova on the Rua Francisco Barreto, where the camarao a guillo (pan-fried shrimp with garlic and piri piri) are a treat. But sssh! It's a local secret gem, so don't tell too many people about it. For an on-the-go snack, pick up a pao com chorico (bread baked with chorizo inside) from Croissanteriea on Rua Santo Antonio. And make a pit-stop at Cafe Gardi on Rua Santo Antonio for a sweet treat that Faro is world-renowned for: hand-crafted marzipan.

SuperBock, an excellent Portuguese beer, and Vinho Verde, Portuguese green wine - no, not actually green but made with green grapes, light, fresh and just a little bit of bubbly (just how we like it!). And you can't go a day in Faro without having a bica - a small black coffee favoured by the locals.

For a fantastic three-star option, the 90-room Hotel Faro is pretty hard to beat. It overlooks the marina, and you can see views of the Ria Formosa National Park from the rooftop terrace. What's more, from June to September the hotel offers a free catamaran trip to Desert Island, where you can spend the day on the beautiful beach. For something a bit more luxurious, the Hotel Evais the ticket. It boasts a rooftop pool and bar, a spa, and the Milreu Piano Bar - swish.

You simply have to go on a shopping tour to Loules Market, a little town near Faro. Local craftsmen, coppersmiths, basket and harness-makers show off their skills, and there's delicious fresh fish and fruits.You can also stroll the cobbled streets and visit the medieval castle. Fancy shopping at some stores you recognise? Head to the downtown area, Baixa de Faro, for familiar names like Mango and Zara, mixed with pretty jewellery stores. Rua de Santo Antonio is the main street for shops, restaurants and cafes, while the Forum Algarve is a modern indoor/outdoor mall with a cinema for film-lovers.

There are some ultra-pretty towns and islands in and around Faro that are crying out to be admired. Isla do Farol is a ferry ride away and perfect for a day on the beach; Quarteira has some of the best beaches in the Algarve and is great for stocking up on gifts and souvenirs; and you can take in typical Algarve countryside in the picturesque town of Tor, just north of Faro.